Melbourne Spring Fashion Week runway show 4 review
A buzzing crowd filled Town Hall on Friday night to witness a uniquely Melbourne fashion affair. Much like the label’s taking part, the show’s styling was the most progressive of the week so far. Hair was braided upwards, fastened above the forehead with a quiff and teamed with a strong black flick across the eyes. What would normally overpower such a varying range of designs complimented and unified the group show as a whole.
Alpha 60 began the night with a video of a white portrait statue crying and Camellias blooming on the statue’s eyes. The peculiar and romantic imagery reappeared as a print throughout the collection that followed. A poetic owl print also made an appearance on silk sports jumpers and bias cut dresses. Alpha 60’s signature monochrome palette was traded in this season for teal and grey tones. A subdued, almost tender collection from the Melbourne label with a strong focus on their signature experimentation with cut and drape.
Video footage was also used at the FAT and local designer Carly Hunter‘s shows. The opening scene from The Shining set the scene for the seventies style of soft tailoring at the FAT show which included labels Dressed Up by Stephanie Downey and Pam. A mesmerizing campaign video from Carly Hunter toned down the show’s fast pace, creating an ambiance that had all eyes on Hunter’s black, white, mustard and nude offering. The collection of bold polka dots and sheer jersey drapes emerged from a haze of smoke as light-as-air fabric from a pair of relaxed track pants or jersey draped dress flowed softly wih each model’s stride.
While Carly Hunter’s fabrication was flawless, flaws were made a feature at Claud Maus denim. Intricately deconstructed knits took pleasure in the runs and frays of the fabric, and thanks to minimal styling and colour, could be easily appreciated next to streamline denim and leather pieces. A different form of deconstruction was found at Limedrop, as designers Clea Garrick and Nathan Price experimented with proportion and tailoring. Long arm holes, box and midriff cuts teamed with wide leg pants offered a different yet wearable concept. Ideal summer fabrics such as linen were contrasted with forest digital print pieces that brought energy to both their women’s and menswear.
A much needed menswear injection to the week continued at Jack London. Colour and texture played key to the show’s overall look as a deep berry tone and velvet created a luxe look. Amongst the eye catching hues, there were wearable basics on offer including classic chinos with rolled up cuffs. The show’s luxe outlook was confirmed by the closing look – a spectacular black wool/gold fleck suit.
If gold and berry colours aren’t your idea of a good time, Trimpaee’s all black range provided a safer colour option. Where it lacked in colour the label made up for with intricate unisex Macrame and fringing singlets and dresses. Raw edges, leather panels and horizontal pleats also added points of interest to men’s pants or flowing floor length sheaths.
The eye catching accessories by Alexandra Black and Estelle Deve cleverly complimented rather than overpowered the full linen skirts and midriff tees at Tesla. The collection’s black long sleeve mini dress with train caught the eyes of many as the ideal little black dress for this season. But the night’s biggest surprise wasabove. Beginning with a lazer cut cotton short suit, the range of toga style jersey dresses in shades of cream, burnt orange and slate grey provided a refreshing yet feminine alternative to florals. The colour blocking was inspired, most notably with the cream sheer top hanging over a pair of bright orange shorts combination. A modern and wearable range that will no doubt gain above. a loyal following beyond the southern city.