Falling for Fall
Based on the last few seasons, we’ve all come to expect Fall to be a somewhat gloomy affair. Not in a sense that it is sad or depressing, but its collections are designed to shield us from the turbulent winter weather. Protect us from the elements, saturate us in moody hues and kit us out in edgy or opulent armour that will see us survive winter’s wrath. And then suddenly, there was a shift. The jacket was tied undone, layers began to unfold and, most interestingly, the viel was lifted and colour began to bloom. This Fall 2012 season was much more hopeful than the past. Summer’s colours have not disappeared, but muted and matured. Textures have tightened rather than toughened and last season’s saccharine femininity has evolved to become bewitching. Rather than being afraid of winter, designers are embracing it.
Best Use Of Colour: Haider Ackermann
Wafts of last season’s doubt have all up disappeared for Haider Ackermann’s critics. The Antwerp designer returned to a more refined and sharp silhouette for Fall, focussing on the intricate draping and fabric folds that fashion insiders know and love him for. While the details were dizzying, it was the bursts of colour that proved most memorable. Amongst muted tones of khaki and chocolate burst vibrant Autumn hues. Bright but also delicate in tone and texture. Truly beautiful to behold.
Best Textures: Proenza Schouler
Though still relatively young in age, designers Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough of New York label Proenza Schouler have successfully come of age in an incredibly short amount of time. For fall the label spread their gaze further than the NYC cool kids they keep company with to take influence from the far east. Their nonchalant NY sex appeal wasn’t completely lost though, thanks to angular yet languid silhouettes but shiny hues and embroidery added a distinct exotic element to the equation. An emerging trend that occurred regularly throughout the fall shows. Of all the elements, it was the textures more than anything that really soaked up the limelight; sleek leather, woven leather, brocade, quilted satin. It was stiff without being restrictive and 100% cool-kid friendly.
Best Accessories: Dolce & Gabbana
Ornate shoes of art have been on the decline lately as loafer sales and sleek designs soar. Dolce & Gabbana have never been ones to follow the flock though. They will happily laud leopard print to the point where it becomes trashy then push it even further until it becomes ironically chic. This season the label continued its love for all things Italian, giving Domenco’s Sicilian heritage the Dolce & Gabbana treatment. Down the runway stroll lace-clad cherub women, modern day empresses, diaphonous mourning dresses, walking renaissance paintings and then there were the accessories. Dripping with gold and donning budding blooms, the collection’s crowns, belts, bags and even shoes were reminiscent of cake icing, only richer. Bold – yes. Gaudy-probably. Hedonistic – unashamedly so.
Best Prints: Prada
It’s not unusual to be conflicted upon first sight of a Prada collection. Unsureness inevitably progresses into lust, to the point where you can’t believe you second guessed wanting a liquorice frilled pencil skirt in your life. Such is the prolonging power of Prada. This season however seemed to hit everyone right off the bat as highly covetable. There was no doubt, no limbo period. Not even for a second. As soon as those ornate textile prints sashayed across the purple carpet, it all made sense. The over-sized embellishment, the empire-line, the double breasted coats, cropped pants. There was a lot going on, but some how it all balanced out. Where most of the collection was black, bright sixties printed pant suits sort to heighten the mood and will no doubt be a huge hit for fall. Pure unadulterated pleasure as Muccia had intended it.
Images sourced from Style.com